How to Spot a Fake Balenciaga Classic Small City Bag - Metallic Edge Collection. Circa 2020

14 Jun

Introduction

I know you must be thinking… hang on isn’t this just a Balenciaga Classic City? No, you gorgeous reader it is not and you need to know this key detail in order to authenticate Balenciaga properly.

This bag is from the Metallic Edge Collection debuted in Balenciaga’s Resort Collection 2014. This collection was the most beautiful update to the Balenciaga Classic City bag. Facts. The Metallic edge collection was the addition of gold hardware outlines to border the leather panels/overlays on the classic city bag.

Read my full bag review here

I have also written a post on How to Authenticate a Balenciaga Classic Medium City, Metallic Edge Collection - Circa 2016 here.

I have also written a post on How to Authenticate a Balenciaga Motocross Classic Small City 2018 here.

Here’s the catch: three bags that look almost identical can each require a totally different authentication - this is because Balenciaga has changed its codes and details so many times over the years.

A few notes on authenticating Balenciaga

Balenciaga bags are authenticated differently due to style, special editions, hardware, age and size. Therefore you only want this blog post if you have your eye on a small and newer Balenciaga City Bag model from the metallic edge collection.

The great news about trying to spot a counterfeit Balenciaga Classic City Small bag is that Balenciaga have made so many changes over the years to this style such as: hardware, changing the letters in the serial number every season, changing zips in 2014, again in 2018 and previously using a silver plate with a 925 in the corner then switching to silver toned hardware, minus the 925 to stamp the serial number *breathe it’s a lot* because of all of this there are a lot of elements you can check with a Balenciaga Classic City bag to help identify if you are being sold a fake. But, it's a lot of information to take in - slightly mind blowing. There are a lot exceptions to the rules depending on the seasons/style/hardware/size so you really have to do your homework!

This bag is probably one of my all-time favourites. Utterly, chefs kiss*

GET A CUP OF COFFEE AND SETTLE IN.

Note: There is a lot of cross over when identifying various City Collections throughout the years. If you’ve read my other Balenciaga posts this does have some of the same information – because it still applies - but not all is the same! I’m not being lazy I promise.

Contents:

1.What’s changed since 2018?

2.Pre 2018

3. The overall look

4. Serial Number and Leather Tab

5. Cross Reference back of zip with serial number

6.Pre 2018

7. Date Codes up to 2021

8. Hardware

9. Handle

10. Front Pocket

11. Stitching

12. Interior Pocket

1. What's changed since 2018?

A) Zips. The back of the zips now feature a double B.

Arrival of the new zip - Autumn / Winter 2018

B) Serial Number / Interior Branding Leather Tab - post S/S 2018. The leather tab is now sewn down on all sides and just says BALENCIAGA. Balenciaga is stamped in gold (Remember: this bag is the metallic collection - not deemed classic hardware - hence why its stamped in gold and not plain)

There is a second leather tab sewn down on all sides in the interior pocket. This says MADE IN ITALY - followed by the serial number xxxxxx.xxxx.Letter.xxxxxx.

2. Pre A/W 2018 - Metallic Edge Collection

-The authenticity code is located on the underside of the leather tab sewn to the interior pocket.

-The fact that this is on a leather tab and not silver toned plated hardware is our first indicator that this bag is genuine.

-Classic City Handbags with Classic Hardware from this time period will have the authenticity code on silver toned hardware. [Remember, anything post 2008 won't have a 925 stamped in the corner because it's no longer genuine silver]. But, this bags hardware is not classic, therefore the authenticity code is printed on leather not silver toned hardware.

-Underneath the code it says MADE IN ITALY and underneath that it says FABRIQUÉ EN ITALIE

-Prior to 2011 'MADE IN ITALY' was lowercase.

-FABRIQUÉ EN ITALIE was added to the leather tag back in 2014. BUT, F/W 2017 season onwards it’s been removed.

FRONT OF THE LEATHER TAB.

This will say BALENCIAGA and the second row .PARIS in gold.

The tab is only sewn down by the top edge.

-It is stamped in gold and not plain because this bag is from the Metallic Collection and only the City Classics with classic hardware have plain heat stamping.

BUT LET’S GET BACK TO THIS BAG.

2. The overall look

She’s a cute little rectangle.

She is 20cm (h) x 30cm (w)

3. Serial Number and Leather tabs

-There are two leather tabs on this bag.

-The first leather tab is located on the exterior of the interior pocket. This has BALENCIAGA stamped in gold. It is 3 stitches (h) x 10 stitches (w).

-It is stamped in gold and not plain only the City Classics with classic hardware have plain heat stamping.

-The second leather tab is on the interior of the interior pocket. This is where you will find the serial number.

-The format is MADE IN ITALY xxxxxx.xxxx.Letter.xxxxxx

-The code features one capitilised letter and sixteen numbers.

-This is just a plain heat stamp. Not gold.

-The letter indicates the year it was made.

-My Bag has a V and therefore is from S/S 2020.

First 6 digits: Model / style number
Next 4 digits: Colour code (e.g. 1000 = black, 6310 = Rose De Sabes)
Letter: Year & season
Last 6 digits: Internal production / batch code

Balenciaga OGs have deduced the colour code for Black is 1000 and the colour ‘Rose De Sabes’ is 6310.

4. Cross Reference the back of Zip with the Serial Number

-Note: Balenciaga have replicated letters over the years.

-Tip: Always cross reference the letter with the back of the interior zip. Serial Numbers can be faked. But counterfeiters often forget to match the letter to the correct time period zip.

-Lets say for example your bag features the letter 'V'

-The 'V' indicates the bag should have been made in S/S 2020. If that is correct and this is the genuine article the zip should feature a capitalised DOUBLE 'BB' on the back. NOT LAMPO/NOT BLANK/ NOT 'B'. Remember Balenciaga changed zips in 2018.

-The 'V' could also represent the s/s 2007 date. However, we know that if this was a 2007 bag it wouldn't exist as the Metallic Collection was released in 2014.

6. DATE CODES UP TO 2021

A= F/W 2017
K= F/W 2012
U= F/W 2007
B = S/S 2017
L = S/S 2012
V = S/S 2007
C= F/W 2016
M= F/W 2011
W= F/W 2006
D = S/S 2016
N = S/S 201 I
Y = S/S 2006
E= F/W 2015
O = F/W 2010
Z= F/W 2005
F= S/S 2015
P = S/S 2010
A = S/S 2005
G= F/W 2014
O = F/W 2009
B= F/W 2004
H= S/S 2014
R = S/S 2009
C = S/S 2004
I = F/W 2013
S= F/W 2008
D= F/W 2003
J= S/S 2013
T = S/S 2008

Z = S/S 2018

Y = F/W 2018

X = S/S 2019

V = S/S 2020

W = F/W 2020

U = F/W 2021

HARDWARE

1)ZIPS

-The bag has four zips.

-The bags closure is a double zip.

-All zips have BB on the back (BACK TO BACK). Prior to 2018 the zips had B on the back, Prior to 2014 they had LAMPO.

-The interior pocket zip is smaller.

-The larger three zips all feature the $ sign on the zips tooth.

-They all have tassels attached to them. The exterior pocket tassel is long measuring 38cm.

-The remaining three tassels are short measuring roughly 6cm.

2) RIVETS

-Since F/W 2005 the rivets are deeply notched. They go in a good 2mm.

-Replica's usually go wider and shallower.

3) BALE

-The bale is the hardware that attaches the shoulder strap to the gold toned loop on the handbag. It has changed a lot over the years - but a good point to note is on a genuine bag its smooth and rounded. (curvy if you will). But, on a fake it always looks angular and like a coat hanger.

4)STUDS

-The studs are smooth

-They look like mini traffic cones but with the top cut off.

-All the same size

5) PUSH STUD

-The shoulder strap is adjustable with a push stud. The back of the push stud is blank.

HANDLE

-This is hand braided.

-The braids are close together. Again, on counterfeits they are uneven and spaced far apart.

FRONT POCKET

Since 2005, the front pocket is partially lined in leather. When you unzip the pocket you'll only see leather. When you fully open up the pocket you'll notice the rest is lined in black material.

STITCHING

The colour of the thread matches the leather perfectly.

1cm = 3 stitches

Notice the stitches are lower on the left and higher on the right. BUT, for the interior stitching the stitches are straight.

Notice the stitches never fall behind the hardware unless purposefully positioned. The studs in the middle panel have been purposefully placed over the stitches. But look at the bottom of the gold outline - the stitches aren’t wonky or falling behind it - they are framing it perfectly.

Notice the studs have been placed over the stitching in the hardware on the corners of the bags and the middle panel. But the studs which attach the handle are outlined by the stitches and do not cover them.

Look at how the sides of the bag are constructed: separate strips of leather have been used to edge the bags and sewn into position.

Interior Pocket

This is a discovery I made today and one that truly excites me because I do not believe ANY counterfeiter in the world is going into this much effort and detail.

The interior pockets have holes in the corners and are outlined by stitching. Why balenciaga has put holes in the pockets who can say? But its the tiny tiny details that counterfeiters miss.