Bible: How to Spot a Fake Vintage Chanel Medium Classic Flap (11.12)
The Chanel Classic Flap was first introduced to the world in 1983 by Karl Lagerfeld. An Icon. Born. If you want to read my honest review click here.
If you have a vintage Chanel and she is looking a bit tired click here to read how I revived mine.
My Chanel Medium Classic Flap is from 1989-90. She’s over 30 years old and beautiful. There is creasing at the front of the bag and the leather was very faded. But, she’s an absolute keeper and luckily I bought her in 2018 so a steal in comparison to resale prices now!!
This has taken months and months of research to put together. But, here is my bible on how to spot a counterfeit vintage Chanel Medium Classic Flap.
This won’t help you with a newer Chanel Classic Flaps. This is for vintage, I don’t go into super fakes or microchip fakes.
I would always highly recommend paying to get your Chanel bag authenticated - resale Chanel’s cost too much money to not have total piece of mind. Believe me if people can fake a handbag they can fake paper receipts, dust bags and store bags.
Hear this! A resale Chanel bag is very expensive. A preloved Chanel is now costing you what a new Chanel would have cost you in 2019. Isn’t that insane!!!…. In 2019 a Chanel Medium Classic cost you £4,830 ($5,800)…. In 2025 it is now costing you £8,850 ($11,909.33). Seriously, who can afford this??? They bump their prices twice a year. This means you are also going to get hit with a bigger price tag in the resale market after every RRP bump.
Remember if your resale bag has a price that is too good to be true….IT IS! Seriously, the internet is awash with super fakes, fakes, bad fakes so please be careful!
Vestiaire Collective (managed in house, or by professionals I would recommend) Sellier Knightsbridge, Designer Exchange, Selfridges Resell, Handbag Clinic and Bonham’s Auctions are 100% my preloved luxury platform go to’s for Chanel.
So let’s dive in! This is a long article
What’s in a name?
The Classic Flap is no longer the Classic Flap. In Spring 2021 Chanel decided to rename it the 11.12. This is named after the original Medium Classic Flap’s style code – A01112.
Contents:
1. Single or Double Flap
2. Sizing
3. Serial Number
4. Leather
5. Stitching/Quilting
6. Hardware
a) CC Lock
b) Backplate
c) Studs and Zips
7. Interior
8. Chain
9.Heat Stamping
1. Single or Double Flap?
When it comes to the Classic Flap you have a choice: Single flap or Double flap. The double flap (which is what my bag is) has an extra interior flap that closes off the interior pockets. The single flap only consists of the exterior flap.
The double flap bag is obviously heavier because it has more leather. (I don’t think you can’t tell this in the medium bags – but people say you can in the maxi’s)
I prefer the double flap it makes me think my belongings are more secure, it also just looks better and is the utter classic Chanel we all know and love.
The single flap was discontinued in 2014.
2. Sizing
The size of a few styles of Chanel bags has changed over the years. But, the medium has always stayed the same. My Chanel is from 1989 and measures 15.5 x 25.5 x 6.5cm. This is still the same today.
3. Serial Numbers and Authenticity Code
The first thing I look at when I’ve bought any handbag is the authenticity code. It’s a great starting point. Chanel’s when sold new will also always have an Authenticity Card. The code on the card will always match the serial number inside the Chanel. BUT (and its exactly what I did with my Chloe Drews) people do sometimes muddle up their authenticity cards or lose the cards! This does happen a lot. So as always you have to look at everything to work out if it’s a fake.
Authenticity Card
The authenticity card is a black plastic card (like a credit card). I would say a lot of the time it doesn’t come with the bag if you are buying resale. They get lost. But, if the bag you are looking at has one – these are a couple of things you need to check.
-The number on the card must match the serial number.
-There is no rainbow effect!! There is no hologram. The card features a gold border. The gold border tone should be identical to the tone of the number which is also gold.
-Post 2005, the card will have a little grey circle positioned in the top right.
-If the card is to flimsy or thin it will likely be fake.
-The spacing between each number is uniform and identical.
Mine did not come with a card – so can’t talk with too much authority as I don’t physically have it with me to hold, measure and study.
Serial Numbers
The serial number is stamped on a white sticker and covered with opaque film (in most cases – but read on for further details)
It measures 2cm (w) x 1cm (h)
It has six Chanel logos on the white sticker.
The serial number is located on the inside of the main compartment, bottom left facing towards the back of the bag.
Font Details: Chanel switch between using Serif Fonts and Sans Serif Fonts. (meaning sometimes the 1’s have little feet and sometimes they don’t depending on the year)
They also switch between 0 and 0 ( 0 with the line through - I can’t find on my keypad!)
Note: the white sticker is curved. Never square!!!
2021 we enter the world of the microchip. Bye bye serial numbers.
4. Leather
The most popular leathers are Lambskin and Caviar. I honestly think if your bag is Lambskin counterfeiters have got so good at replicating the leather quality – its super hard to tell.
My best piece of advice I can give is stroke the leather. If the Lambskin leather is not the softest nicest thing you’ve ever felt – it’s a fake. I actually recommend you go into Chanel and feel the lambskin leather. The quality is out of this world.
[but, what’s tricky and goes against my above advice – is if the bag has been restored and resprayed (like mine) it won’t be as soft, or if someone has kept it in good condition it will be dry!
If your handbag is 30 years old like mine you might find that there is creasing at the front of the bag where the structure has been lost over time.
Caviar leather… you actually need to go as far as inspecting the individual pebbles!
5. Stitching / Quilting
The diamonds are comprised of 10.5-11 stitches along each side.
Close up Lambskin (bad lighting)
The quilting won’t be puffy if you are looking at a 36 year old bag.
The stitched interlocking CC which is located on the interior of the second flap of the double flap – is another place to identify bad counterfeit work.
The interlocking CC’s are 6cm (h) x 8cm (w) and should be 2.2cm above the middle of the Chanel Stamping. (If you measure from the copyright logo) it’s 1.5cm.
Each C is 1 cm thick
The ends of each C comprise of 5 stitches.
The colour of the stitching should match the interior colour perfectly.
6. Hardware
A) The Iconic CC Lock
Shape: On vintage Chanel bags the Cs have a flat finish. On newer Chanel bags the Cs appear thinner and are rounded Cs
The right C always overlaps the left C at the top.
The left C always overlaps the right C at the bottom.
The Cs are 4mm wide.
The Cs are 2mm deep.
The interlocking CC measures a total of 2.5cm (h) x 3cm (w)
Pre – 2008 Chanel hardware was 24k gold plated.
In late 2008 (cruise collection 08/09) they moved to gold toned
If your bag is pre-2008 there will be a gold plated symbol on the C.
When moving the turnstile lock (2cm heigh) – it should move smoothly with no issues/noises or squeaks.
Also notice the small details - look at the little dip (upside down triangle in the middle of the turnstile)
B) The Back Plate
The back plate of the CC Lock measures 2.4cm x 1.8cm
CHANEL and PARIS are engraved on the plate.
The plate will also feature two working screws.
Note: It’s the tiny tiny tiny details that counterfeiters do not do.
Small detail: In the hole located by the left hand screw. There is a small gap. This is the size of a tiny flat head screwdriver. I assume it’s to be able to lift the back plate off the leather once you’ve unscrewed it (if you were so inclined for cleaning). Look out for things like this!
C) Zips and Studs
If you have read my post on the Balenciaga Classic City bag you will know I am fanatical about zips and hardware!! It’s one of the biggest giveaways! To the point where I have written to Lampo in Italy to ask a query about a Lady Dior from the 90s.
Cross referencing zip manufacturing with time period is a great way to identify a fake.
Interior
The deep burgundy colour of the interior flap is apparently the same colour of the uniform that Coco Chanel wore at her time in the Aubazine Abbey convent as a small girl in France.
Its small details that counterfeiters overlook.
Pay attention to the thick single stitch that attaches the double flap to the bag. You will see this single stitch at the back of the bag. The thread at the back is 1mm thick, and then if you open the bag you’ll see the stitch has been doubled over and goes to 2mm thick.
Chain
The leather woven into the chain is 5mm thick.
Pay close to attention to how the leather is finished. Two thick single stitches secure each side of the leather strap inplace.
Chanel and Made in Stamp
My bag starts with 14 and is therefore from the time A/W 1989 or S/S 1990.
Please note that the year of production dictates the placement of the stamp and the font. I am talking about a bag from 1989/90.
The ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ is stamped inside the main pocket on the outer side of the bag. It is located 1cm down from the edge of the bag. It is stamped in gold due to the hardware being gold. The font is just under 3mm high and the entirety of ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ measure 2.9cm long.
The CHANEL is located on the interior of the second flap of the double flap
It is stamped 2.2cm below the middle of stitched interlocking CC (If you measure from the copyright logo) it’s 1.5cm.
Take a closer inspection of the CHANEL lettering
- All the letters are the same size. They are 0.5mm wide and 0.5mm high.
- The opening of the C is a 30 degree angle.
- The top half of the "H" is shorter than the bottom half.
- The upper corner of "N" is longer than the bottom corner.
- The lower line of the "E" is a millimetre longer than the top line. The middle line of the “E” is the shortest.
The copyright symbol is what I focus on. The R has short, stubby legs and doesn’t touch the circle.
I hope this helps xx
Love Alice
